Day 24 – 1/25/11

We examined the maps of Warderick Wells island and decided that we would walk up to Boo Boo Hill and then to the blow holes.  As we departed the dingy, we encountered black and yellow birds, bananaquils, flitting everywhere.  We even had one pay us a visit on our boat.  These cute little feathered friends will search through your boat for sweets, and will go through your garbage if they smell something they want, so it is wise to keep screens in your ports and hatches. 

One of the main rules in the park is to keep on the trails which helps maintain its pristine condition.  Walking through the moonscape rocks, mangroves, tidal streams, dunes, and tropical forest provides a potpourri of environments to explore.   On our walk up Boo Boo trail, we spotted several lizard trails but did not spy many of the critters that made them.  Atop the hill the view is spectacular, and we had a view of the entire island, the boats in the anchorage, and the other nearby cays.  If needed, we could use our phone as the nearby island has a cell tower.   On this island we have internet access and that is all.  There are no bathrooms or showers, and no water or other provisions.  If they had these facilities, no one would ever leave!!!!

We walked down to the blow holes, and due to nesting of some terns, we were only able to view the first.  There were several holes in the rock that extended down over 50 feet to the underground cavern below.  Whenever the waves would rush in the air would be expelled through the holes at the top.  With the waves 3 – 5 feet in the Exuma sound, the rocks below would send the spray skyward. 

 

Later in the day, we dingyed to Emerald rock and then to its beach.  From the beach we snorkeled around the rocks and small reef.   Nothing remarkable, but beautiful just the same.  Running back in the dingy, we surfed down the waves in the bay and with a flat bottomed dingy it is a bit squirrelly. 

After a shower, required after being in the salt water, I started dinner. Dinner was pasta on a bed of spinach, with my soon to be famous tomato sauce. 

Day 23 – 1/24/11

Day 23 dawned windy and partly cloudy.  We listened to the brief weather report from Highbourne Cay marina, which called for increasing winds the next few days.  We decided that we were going to move to Warderick Wells Cay regardless whether we got a mooring ball.  When the announcement of boats that received a mooring was read, neither ours nor our friend’s boat name was mentioned.  I hailed Dennis with the news, and we prepared to get underway.  Fifteen minutes later, the Exuma Land and Sea Park hailed Dennis.  I responded as Dennis could not hear their call.  Once their mooring was secured, I asked about ours, and we were on the mooring ball next to Dennis and Mary.  With a huge sigh of relief, we motored out of the Normans Cay anchorage.

As noted above, the winds were slated to increase, and they did as we had consistent 18 – 24 knot winds on our journey.  With those winds we had 3 to 5 foot seas and took several dousing, with water coming up to the coach roof.  It was a wild 20 mile ride!!!  Here is a picture of Dennis and Mary's boat on the journey.

 As we made the turn into Warderick Wells, the seas diminished as we were on the lee side of the island.  We motored into the mooring field which is a narrow channel, and attached to a mooring ball.  No more worries for a couple of nights about anchor watch.  We checked in and became an Exuma Land and Sea fleet member.  One, the membership gave us two free nights and also priority should we require another stay.  Looking over the anchorage, we can see why it is so popular. 

We dingyed back and settled in for a good night’s sleep, without the worries of anchor drag and wave slap.  The tidal change created an almost musical sound as the water passed under our hulls.  

Day 22 – 1/23/11

The day dawned still windy but clear.  We continued to dry out the boat, while I set to work to prevent (attempting) any more intrusion.   I re-bedded the port salon window’s screws, and went back to work on the forward berth.  The Tolley’s kept being absorbed and I eventually decided to re-caulk the outside of window.  When we get back, I am going to have to reexamine the method that these windows were attached.  Given the pounding that we put the boat through, I may have to remove the windows and reattach them using Sikaflex; expensive but excellent holding and flexibility.   

Dennis motored over and we both checked our anchors.  We were both still set and Dennis’ needed a little straightening of the chain to prevent the wrapping situation.  On the way to his boat, I got soaked sitting front of his dink with the spray coming over the bow.  Afterwards we discussed our next destination.  We decided on Warderick Wells in the Exuma Sea Park, a marine preserve.  We could not raise them on Dennis’ VHF, so we went to our boat to call.  We are on the waiting list so at 9 am tomorrow we will find out if we have a mooring. 

Beth wanted to go to lunch, so we took the dingy to the beach and went to McDuff’s Beach Club.  It is located right next to the old airstrip where the drug planes once landed.  Planes still come and go, bringing guests to the small Normans Cay Beach Club, or to the private residences on the north side of the island.  We had lunch of conch fritters and a couple of Bahama Mamas.  We spoke with the owner regarding phone access, and he said go down to the beach and you will have no problem.  He was right and we contacted both Lauren and Richard to let them know that their parents are ok.  The irony, we contacting them letting them know that we have not sailed off the edge of the world.  Both phone and internet access is limited in some of the islands. 

We walked down to Normans Pond, and from that vantage point could see our boat in the distance.   We uncovered a huge conch on the way to our dink, and motored back to the boat, stopping to view the drug plane that was uncovered by the lower tide.  Back at the boat, we showered and had a light dinner. 

Day 21 – 1/22/11

Three weeks; time flies when you are having fun.  After a rain squally night, the day dawned bright and sunny, although  still windy from the south / southeast.  I began to try and fix the leaks in the forward berth.  I have Captain Tolley’s Creeping Crack Cure, and poured it in to the one area and it came through.  Yes, I found the issue!!!  I re-bedded the screws in the window also.  As I was working on deck, here comes Dennis and Mary’s boat heading east with no one in the cockpit.  I hailed them noting that they were dragging their anchor.  Once reset, Dennis noted that with the tides and current, the chain had wrapped around the anchor not allowing it to reset itself. 

The sunny day did not last long.  The front that was forecast came through, and with it the rains.  The salon window where I had re-bedded the screws no longer leaked.  Unfortunately, I did not have enough time to complete the fix on the forward berth and it still leaked, not as profusely as before, but enough to be a PIA.  The port side salon window also requires attention. 

After the Dennis and Mary’s boat escapade, Dennis came by and we looked at my anchor.  I decided that even though we were still set, we should move out of the tidal surge area into shallower water.   Given that our boat only draws about two feet, we moved into some 2 – 3 foot water.  Once we had backed down on the anchor, I walked out to the anchor and stood on it while Beth backed down on it again burying it in the sand.  As the wind switched from the south to north, I was happy that we moved and set the anchor deep.  During the night we topped out at 27 knots and with all 80 foot of chain and additional rode, we stayed put.  Dinner was fish, rice, and broccoli, still no luck with the fishing pole. 

Day 20 – 1/21/11

What a difference a day makes.  Did I really say that????  Early in the morning, I awoke to freshening winds and a swell from the southeast.  I got up and started GPS duty to make sure we were staying put with the changing weather.  Satisfied I went back to sleep, waking to see us very close to our neighbors.  I decided that we should move, upped anchor to re-establish our anchorage. 

After breakfast, I loaded up the dingy with fuel and water cans, and trash, and headed to the Highbourne Marina.  I pushed the dingy through 2 foot swells about ½ a mile to the marina.  I met Dennis and Mary there, doing the same task.  After re-provisioning, I headed back, and here comes the fun part.  Loading the dingy with the cans and trash, as well as me, in mixed up seas was a challenge; unloading full fuel and water canisters was even more so.  After everything was aboard including the dingy and its motor, off we went to Normans Cay, a short 10 mile trip.  Short, bumpy, water over the bow trip. 

We set up anchorage near the channel that separates Normans Cay from Wax Cay.  This is a well-protected anchorage, with the exception that there is a tidal surge that runs through it.  Dennis dingyed over with his bucket to look at the bottom.  We checked the anchor and we were set for the night, although there was a time where the wind and the tide were holding us in place.  We’re anchored a couple hundred yards from a “drug” plane that crashed and is still visible on low tides. 

Day 19 – 1/20/11

What a difference a day makes.  Yesterday we were slogging through 3 - 4 foot seas that threw green water over our bow as we made our way through the Northwest Channel.  This morning we arose to calm seas, with the moon still awake before being replaced by the sun.  We looked down to see the chain from our anchor coiled on itself; i.e. the chain was holding us in place and not the anchor.  As we examined the aquarium below us we spotted three starfish, and were able to capture them on film. 

As we motored south to Highborne Cay, we virtually glided through the dead calm water.  Our boat wake created shadows and highlights across the bottom.  From our vantage point we could see coral and small rocks on the sandy bottom in 20 feet of water. 

Arriving in Highbourne Cay, we set up in the anchorage.  As the afternoon progressed we were joined by other sailboats and three magayachts.  Dennis commented that why weren’t they staying in the marina on the island.  I responded they don’t have to; they have a captain, a chef, and enough fuel and speed to get to Georgetown by tomorrow.

Beth and I dingyed ashore to stretch our legs on the beach.  After we landed, we noticed several conch shells with their residents still at home.  They were too small to take for dinner.  After our beach excursion, we stopped by our boat to pick up some refreshments and dingyed over to Dennis and Mary’s boat.  After we compared notes of the previous days, we headed back in the dark.  Note: Leave the anchor light on before leaving in the evening.  Dinner consisted of pasta and the sauce that I had made a week ago. 

Day 18 - 1/19/11

Remember those beautiful images of yesterday evening; well about 3 am they were shattered.  I was awakened by the boat being rocked by a new swell, with some intermittent wave slap.  The light winds of the evening were replaced with a freshening breeze, and that breeze suddenly became 15 to 20 knots.  Between the wind and waves, we did not return to sleep.  I made my GPS checks to assure that we were not heading for the shipping lanes, and Beth responded to Dennis on the VHF, noting that if we were up, we should get moving.  I was a little hesitant with the wind and waves, and considering neither of us have a windlass to pull the anchor.  However, around 5:30, both the wind and the waves subsided enough to allow us to leave our overnight anchorage.  One consolation was a spectacular sunrise as we motored towards the channel. 

Our destination today was West Bay on the western portion of New Providence island; Nassau is the capital.  With the winds we were able to fly our jibs, and at least save some gas.  We were close hauled all of the way, until eventually we were forced to motor. 

Once West Bay was in sight, I felt that a weight had been lifted.  Two sleeples nights were starting to take their toll.  We motored into the bay, Beth steering while I monitored the bottom.  The notes in the charts said that there were some coral heads that required watching.  Once anchored, I took off my shirt and climbed into the water, which was 78 degrees, according to my speed control.  You would hardly guess that I had spent the two previous nights hardly sleeping, as I swam to our friends boat about 300 yards away. 

Dinner was catch as catch can, as I did not want to cook.  I wanted to relax and recharge.  After watching another sunset over a couple of drinks, the previous two days are now distant memories. 

Day 17 - 1/18/11

We are off again.  We watched a beautiful sunrise as we upped anchor and set out on the next leg of our journey.  By the time we awoke, the winds had finally switched from the south, which eliminated the banging from the waves the previous night.  Yes, the waves hitting between the hulls make a lovely crescendo.  It’s called wave slap. 

With the wind from the south, we were able to hoist the jib to give us a little extra speed without using extra fuel.  By midday, the wind had dwindled and shifted to more southeast, so we furled the jib.  However, a couple hours later, the wind shifted and freshened, and once again with the jib up, we had a nice bump in our speed.  Cruising over the Bahamas Banks reveals some of the most beautiful water in the world.

Our goal was the Northwest Channel, over 60 miles away.  Yes, it is an hour drive on the freeway, but a good day in a sailboat.  We passed a pod of 8 dolphins along the way, and I once again tossed the fishing line overboard in hopes of catching dinner.  Denied again; rice, broccoli, and sardines for dinner. 

Once we arrived at the Northwest Channel, we needed an anchorage.  By the time we motored the last 3 miles, the sun had set and we were setting the anchor in the dark.  Luckily, I found some sand and the anchor set on the first try.  Setting out 160+ feet of rode should secure us for the night.  Regardless, we are 5 miles from the channel, and I do not believe that we could drag that far.  Outside is a full moon, and with no other ambient light, as we cannot see any land mass from our anchorage, the stars are so bright.  Now if the seas will settle down, it truly will be a wonderful night. 

Day 16 - 1/17/11

Sorry for the delay in the posting of the last few days.  Today we could not get an internet connection and Tuesday we were 30 miles from the nearest land. 

Today is positioning day.  We are leaving Bimini for Cat Cay.   Dennis and I have put the waypoints into the GPS/Chart Plotter to get us to our destination a short 2 – 3 hours away.  As we were preparing to depart, removing the forward berth cover revealed a crack in the glass around one of the screws and the screw with the snap revealed that it was not secure.  I was able to fix the snap with a longer screw and new snap.  The crack was temporarily secured with super glue, and as we would find out, not very well. 

We led the way south, making a port turn at Triangle Rocks through a large pass between the two islands.  On the passage we encountered a school of flying fish.  We had never encountered this phenomenon, and they were too quick for us to capture them on film.  The next waypoint would send us south to Cat Cay.  As we arrived at Cat Cay, the winds started increasing.  It took us three attempts to secure the anchor as there was a lot of sea grass, which does not make for a good anchorage.  As we were setting the anchor, the final flight in and out of Cat Key descended over our heads.  As you will note, it is VFR (Visual Flight Rules), no lights or tower.  

Once set, we watched the wind increase from 15 to 25+ knots.  Dennis informed us that about 4 pm the winds would subside, and he was correct only to have the rain set in.  Remember that crack in the glass; yes, it does leak.  Fortunately, the water went on the mat on the floor.  After the rain subsided, the wind blew again.  As I tracked the GPS coordinates, it appeared that we were securely anchored.  Even so, I still stood watch until 1 am and finally went to sleep. 

Day 15 - 1/16/11

A beautiful sunrise started our day, and it appears that the weather window for our trip to the Exumas is opening.  Dennis and I discussed strategies, and decided that we would leave tomorrow for Gun Cay, anchor overnght, and then anchor on the Banks overnight, before ending in West Bay on New Providence island.  From there it would be a short sail to Highbourne Cay, which should put us in the Exumas on Thursday. 

We walked north today with the thought of crossing to the beach at one point and then heading south. Many of the locals were on their way to church as we passed golf carts with both adults and children in shirts and ties and dresses.  Others were walking to their church.  There are several demoninations on the island, Catholic, Anglican, to name a few. 

Once we arrived at the beach, Beth snapped a few photos, while I searched some of the limestone pools, and was rewarded with a huge Helmet shell.  As we moved south, I spotted a couple of shells in the deeper water and waded in up to my waist.  The combination of the warm water and bright sun made it easy to let the water wash over me.  Beth even got in the water up to her knees. 

We came upon some perfectly cut stones in the water, and I took some pictures.  The legend is that these are part of the stones from the lost city of Atlantis.  Beth found her pink conch and I uncovered a zebra shell.  As we came to the end of our walk, we spotted a cat under full sail, a hopeful premonition of days to come. 

Day 14 - 1/15/11

It's been two weeks and we have run our gamut of weather; rain, wind, cold, and now beautiful sunny weather. Today is a far cry from the multiple layers of clothing that we wore over a week ago.  We awoke to clear skies, and a light wind.  Once the chores of the day were complete, off to the beach for another walk.  We headed south again, Beth finally opting for capri's instead of pants.  I am down to a tank and baggies.

We walked down to the wreck and with the waves almost non-existent, I went down for a closer look.  Often within the crevasses of the wrecks are treasures, but none were to be found.  Photo op of me standing on the portion of the wreck that seem the soundest.  

We continued south and reached the point again, and doubled back along the beach.  When we returned, our neighbors had a pair of fresh lobster tails for us, which they had received from a gentlemen Dennis had met on the dock.  He was going lobstering and invited Dennis along, but Dennis declined.  Barely an hour later, he returned with several tails, noting that his wife forbid him to bring any more home.  Our dinner menu was set. 

Before dinner, we walked up to the beach to watch the sunset.  This time we were not disappointed, even with some clouds on the horizon, the sunset was spectacular.  Without the sun's brilliance, we spotted some smaller islands to the north. 

After returning from the beach, I set to preparing our meal.   A little butter and lemon pepper over the split tails and then wrapping them in foil, they hit the grill.  Lobster is not one of Beth's favorites, but is soon may be.

Day 13 - 1/14/11

The weather is still partly cloudy, with the temps in the low 70's.  We are still waiting for the bright sunny days.  We walked to the south point of the island by the channel where we had entered, and decided to hike north on the beach.  The waves from the last two days were gone, so we went gathering shells. 

We passed the small freighter wreck that we had seen the last few days and closely examined the remains.  Huge holes in the hull, with rusting pieces hanging on by threads that will probably be gone in the next big storm, reveal how time and the elements will reduce this once large ship to nothing. 

Proceeding on we passed the places where the waves would crash into the rocks send the spray skyward.  On these rocks, several crabs scurried about looking for havens whenever the surf would wash over them.  As we appoached them and they would raise their eyes like periscopes to watch our progress, and then look for another place to hide.  Most blended in to the dark rocks, and only their movement gave away their position. 

After a while, Beth took to the road as I continued along the sand.  In amongst some seaweed, I uncovered a large sea fan. After numerous attempts to prop it up in the sand for a photo op, I abandoned that effort as the wind kept blowing it over. 

We continued on and walking on the soft sand warmed us to where we removed our wind breakers.  As we grew a little tired from the walk we looked for a way to get back to the road.  Most of the empty lots were fenced, and it was not until we came upon a well worn path, that we were able to return to the road.  The house that we passed on our way to the road was covered in 16" tiles and stucco, but was never finished.  Steps to the upper floor had no railings, and it looked like some of the tiles had been removed.  Along the beach road were the local's residences and business.  We turned east and returned to the marina, Beth capturing the street fare and our dockage for posterity. 

Dennis and I reviewed the charts as we believe that we will have a weather window in the next few days to alow us to proceed to another island. Our next stop will be New Providence (Nassau), but we will be staying on western side of the island.  From there to the Exumas.  Afterwards we conducted a BRG (Beverage Research Group) on the Bahamian stout we had purchased.  Dinner consisted of spinach and pasta, utilizing the sauce I had prepared the previous night. 

Day 12 - 1/13/11

After a rather sleepless night due to some back pain, I awoke a bit late to day 2 in Bimini.  We are usually up by 7, and I slept until 8:30.  After some stretching and some Back and Body, I felt better.  As we are tending to the needs of the boat, we are getting some exercise, and now that we are docked, we are walking everywhere.  After showers and other needs, we left the boat about noon. 

We stopped for lunch at Capt. Bob's and had a bowl of their conch chowder.  It was wonderful, large chunks of conch in a semi-spicy base.  One thing to note is that it takes them a little time to prepare, so it is wise to no go starving. Looking north in Alicetown.

The weather yesterday was partly sunny, in the lower 70's with the wind still brisk out of the north.  After lunch we headed south, stopping at a small hardware store.  With all the hardware I brought along, I did not have a 2" hinge that had broken.  The proprietor, a knowledgeable lady, guided me to the hinges.  I also needed a spare spark plug for our generator, but she did not have the replacement part. 

After that we went for a walk along the beach.  Our boat buddies had been there earlier, and had returned with some nice conch shells.  We also returned with some treasures.  We came upon a coral outcropping, where the waves would hit and send the spray skyward.  Beyond we saw a boat on the rocks.  Looking out on the horizon, we could see the waves marching southward, not a good time to be on the water.  Interestingly, we talked with the owner of a 60' sailboat, who said they were headed back to Ft Lauderdale in the morning.  Dennis and I would not even consider such a crossing, but with 21 tons beneath you rather than 4, it is possible but not comfortable.

Shortly after 5, the four of us made our way back to the beach to watch the sunset.  With the clouds, it was not an impressive one, but with the ocean as a back drop, we took pictures of one another.  We are about to leave when two dogs come running up the beach.  With strange dogs, you are always apprehensive, but they were well trained and sat at command.  Here is Beth with her new friends!!!

Day 11 - 1/12/11

Our first full day in the Bahamas dawned overcast and gray, with showers in the forecast all day.  Undetered we ventured out.  We headed north from our berth in the Blue Water resort marina.  Our boat buddies had been out and come back after a short trip south.  We decided that we would walk north until we hit the loop which would bring us up to the beach, and back to our marina in Alicetown.  Well we never found that road, and we ended up walking to the north portion of the island, about 2 miles away. 

During our walk we found the BTC (Bahamas Telephone) and met the nice people who told how to swap out our SIM card so that we could have connectivity via their phone network.  We walked by small shops and some "sketchy" areas.  This island is a contrast in various level of economics.  Buildings leveled by hurricanes that were never rebuilt, old shops with their vibrant colors, and new development dot the landscape. 

Traffic, fortunately we are here in the off season, is wild; cars, trucks, and golf carts driving on the wrong side of the street (they drive on the left side).  Fortunately, they beep if you are in the way. 

We walked up from the road to the beach and took some pictures.  The ocean water is beautiful. 

After leaving the ocean, we made it to the Bimini Bay resort.  We could have satyed here, with the same price per foot as where we are staying, but with a 40' minimum (our boat is 34').  We had some gellato, no real ice cream, and walked back. 

I made some of my Italian sauce, although it was limited due to no fresh mushrooms, onions, and garlic.  It still came out pretty well.  We had some pasta and spinach for dinner.

Day 10 - 1/11/11

1-11-11. Not a lucky number at least to start the day.  We woke to thick fog and as we were leaving at 6:30, there was barely enough light to see.  Several boats went by us headed east, and with our bright anchor light, I am sure they saw us.  When we upped anchor, I became so disoriented not being able to see more that 40 feet in front of us that I almost dropped it and abandoned the crossing.  We had done 2 - 360's and I was concerned about hitting the other boats that were near us, although we were at least 400 yards away from them.  Once I got re-oriented and relied on the GPS and compass, we were able to proceed forward.  Within a half an hour, we caught up to Dennis and Mary and began the crossing.  After we ghosted past Cape Florida light and a couple of final markers, we were finally in the ocean. 

The beginning was fairly rough and we hobby horsed for the first hour, taking some water over the bow.  I felt that this was not going to be an easy crossing and then the waves calmed down a bit.  There was still a good 2 - 3 foot north swell running.  Dennis had spoken with several people that were going to make the crossing and we did see one boat behind us, but that was it.  We saw 2 cargo ships headed south, one crossed in front of us and one behind.  We threw out a line in the hopes of catching some fish, but the proved to be fruitless. 

Once we entered the gulf stream our forward progress slowed from about 5.5 knots to around 4.  We steamed a south easterly course initially so that once we turned more due east we would hit our target of North Bimini.  Once we made that turn we started making 6 to 7.5 knots.  Our depth sounder stopped giving us readings at 900 feet.  The water in these depths is such a deep dark blue. 

The winds on the crossing were all over the map.   Initially none, then on our nose, from the north, etc., so using the sail was not an option.  We encountered a squall line, which gave us a brief shower, but south of us we could see major rain with some water spout lines extending from the clouds. 

Once we saw Bimini on the horizon, we knew we were close and the hardest part was behind us.  We made the run through the channel into North Bimini, slowly at first not trusting the depth sounder.  We tied up at customs, and I proceeded to fill out 7 forms, which we could have obtained online and filled most of them out before our landing.  Interestingly, they still use carbon paper to create the documents you need.  We will have to check in with customs once again as we only have a 30 day visa. I had asked for 60 days, but 20 - 20 hindsight I should have asked for 90, and would not have to check in again.  Fortunately, there are no additional costs. 

We found a marina, checked in, and popped the champagne!!! Sitting in the beautiful azure water looking at the bottom in 15 feet of water, I felt that we have accomplished so much since we initially discussed this adventure with Dennis and Mary.  All the expenditures, planning, and work have paid off, and we are just at the beginning of this adventure.